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Paddling an uncharted river in Mongolia

Written by Matt Larsson-Clifford of Sweden Outdoors Coaching

The expedition to Paddle the Delgermoron was first planned in 2019 for a 2020 trip.  The participants were essentially paddlers & adventurers looking for something a little bit different.  Covid and Putin put the brakes on this unfortunately until Turkish Airlines came up with an alternative simple (non-Russian Airspace) route in.  The new team actually had one of the original team members and was once again comprised of individuals with a thirst for adventure.

Despite not really knowing one another, the team gelled quickly and performed well both in terms of supporting one another on the water and also really getting involved in the setting the camp up which involved, setting up cook tent, stove, collecting wood and water and making sure that all team jobs were completed before they sorted their personal kit.

The goal of the expedition was to safely paddle the length of the Delegermoron river in Northern Remote Mongolia.  This is a remote and wilderness paddle which takes in the amazing Mongolian Steppe and all that it has the offer.

First Strokes on the Delgermoron

The activity was open canoeing. Mongolians are renowned for their fear of water and canoe sport in Mongolia is very much a niche and extremely small part of its tourism.  Indeed, we experienced this with the nomad families we met. It was most certainly not a daily occurrence for them to meet paddlers in canoes especially westerners – one family who invited us into their Ger(Yurt) commented on the fact that we were the first westerners that they had ever physically met!

In terms of the Canoe, we employed a significant proportion of traditional techniques, including paddling flat water, whitewater, lining, wading and tracking.

The local outfitter believes that we were only the second team ever to paddle the upper section of the Delgermoron.  It was a real adventure as we had no guidebook, paper maps or any real local knowledge, so the whole river was managed and led from the boat- literally reading the river and dealing with whatever came around the next bend- real adventure!

Did your plans change at any time? How did you react to this/manage this if so?

Day 1 resulted in several capsizes on some of the whitewater.  This continued into day 2 and so did the nature of the water we faced.  Whilst this did not change our plans, I was constantly re-evaluating our progress and doing lots of speed/distance/time calculations in my head which essentially translated to plan b, c, d and e. These new plans were options where we could possibly get picked up earlier given our delayed and challenging start.  

The reality was that we did not need to use these options and managed to successfully navigate 300km of the Delgermoron to its end at 5 rivers Camp.

1 specific example of having to change plans was when we were lining a rapid (I often refer to this sort of rapid as a graveyard – lots of rocks and boulders submerged just enough to cause us problems which would be extremely difficult to fix.  Therefore, I made the call that we would line and wade the boats.  Lining is the process of using ropes on the bow and stern of the canoe to make progess downstream, without having to empty to canoe.  Given the nature of the river, this often meant we also waded.  After 500m of this activity (a great team event in itself) we came to a left hand bend and a cliff.  As we approached it from upstream, my heart sank and I held onto to something inside me that said, just get there and solve the problem.

However, once we arrived, cushion waves, strong current, deep water and undercut rocks were the reality.  When I lead expeditions or indeed any outdoor activity, I really need to be aware of the ‘Human Factors’ that can result in making decisions based upon taking the easy way out/the short cut.  As I stood and inspected the challenge, I realised that I already had my answer as the time it was taking was directly correlated to the reality that it would certainly be possible to get the group through this rapid, however, the consequences of failure would be extreme.

Therefore, we about-turned and were faced with the reality of ‘tracking & wading’ our boats back up the rapid we had just lined them down.  Most definitely not a popular decision with the group – not a popular decision for me, but 100% the right one and after getting upstream to a suitable location we were able to ferry glide over to river left and make camp.

The expedition was 10-28 June 2025. Water levels were good and we potentially were still enjoying an element of winter snow melt.

What did you learn from your expedition?

Lots of lessons were learned personally as a leader and also by the group.  I think everyone was blown away by how much we learned about Mongolia, its people, history and culture – this was an ongoing theme from the minute we landed in the capital of Ulaabaatar until leaving. Such a rich and proud culture all the way back to the times of Chingis Kahn.  

I would like to think the group also learnt many technical (specific strokes, developments and efficiencies) skills, tactical skills (decision making and use of tactics to negotiate various challenges) alongside various new camping and bushcraft skills – for example using yak dung to cook and prepare food and also as an insect repellent!

Personally, I found the opportunity to paddle a little known river amazing and revelled in the fact that it is not that often that as an Outdoor Guide we are able to experience true adventure these days as guidebooks & blogs & maps and various beta provide all of this. Yes this was a real adventure where the thoughts of not being successful often floated through my mind!

Where did the expedition take place?

The Delger mörön (Mongolian: Дэлгэр мөрөн, lit. 'wide river') is a river in the Khövsgöl aimag in northern Mongolia. It rises in the Ulaan Taiga range close to the Russian border. It is 445 kilometres (277 mi) long, and has a drainage basin of 26,600 square kilometres (10,300 sq mi).[1]

Together with the Ider River, it is the headwaters of the Selenge River. It meets with the Ider at Tömörbulag, thereafter becoming the Selenge.

The Delger mörön is frozen for 128–175 days through the year. There is a ferry in Bayanzürkh, and a concrete bridge just south of Mörön.

What did you find most useful about your ThruDark kit?

We were all issued with the Oryon Carbon Shirt, Oryon Carbon Trousers and Stealth Base Layer Top.  I personally found each item perfect for my size and a very comfortable cut.  The material seems very robust and stretched in all the right locations.  It was amazing how much the clothes shed water and the time they took to completely ‘wet out’. 

The goal of the expedition was to complete a full descent of 300km to the rivers at 5 Rivers Camp.  It was designed to be a ‘Real Adventure’ where we literally had no idea of what was around the next bend and ultimately, we there were definite risks to life and limb, ambiguity and no assured chance of success’.

As described, this is a very infrequently paddled river and we have been led to believe, that potentially we are the first British group to have completed the top section and maybe even the whole river (TBD).

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